Matt Warren, Author at HaMuch

Strange Smell Coming From the Kitchen Sink

3rd September 2026 Matt Warren

Strange smells from the kitchen sink are unpleasant, but they are also useful clues. In many UK homes, the cause is something fairly ordinary, such as food buildup in the waste pipe, a dry Ubend, a di

Strange smells from the kitchen sink are unpleasant, but they are also useful clues. In many UK homes, the cause is something fairly ordinary, such as food build-up in the waste pipe, a dry U-bend, a dishwasher connection issue or a small leak under the cupboard.

The right next step depends on what the smell is like, when it appears and whether the sink is draining normally. This guide walks you through the common causes, what you can safely check yourself and when a plumber or drainage specialist is the right person to call.

First, make sure it is not a gas smell

Most sink smells come from the drain, not the gas supply. Even so, a rotten egg type smell can sometimes be confused with the smell added to mains gas, especially in a kitchen where there may be a gas hob, boiler or pipework nearby.

If the smell seems to be coming from the room rather than the plughole, or you suspect gas for any reason, do not investigate the sink first. Follow Gas Safe Register emergency advice, call the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999, open doors and windows, avoid flames and do not turn electrical switches on or off. Any repair to a gas appliance or gas pipe must be handled by a Gas Safe registered engineer.

If you are confident the smell is only from the sink drain, the checks below can help you narrow it down.

What different kitchen sink smells usually mean

A smell from kitchen sink drains can have several causes. This table gives you a quick way to match the smell to the most likely problem and the trade that usually deals with it.

What you notice	Likely cause	Who usually handles it
Rotten egg or sewer-like smell from the plughole	Dry trap, faulty trap, blocked waste pipe or drain gases escaping	Plumber, or drainage specialist if the blockage is further along
Sour, stale food or greasy smell	Food residue, fat and biofilm inside the waste pipe or trap	Plumber if cleaning does not clear it
Musty smell in the cupboard below the sink	Small leak, damp unit base, mould or trapped moisture	Plumber first, then cleaner or carpenter if damage remains
Smell appears when the dishwasher or washing machine runs	Appliance waste hose or shared waste connection issue	Plumber for the waste connection, appliance engineer if the machine itself smells
Smell is strongest outside near a gully or manhole	External drain issue, blocked gully or backed-up waste	Drainage specialist or plumber

For most kitchen sink smells, a plumber is the sensible first call. They can check the waste trap, pipework, appliance connections and signs of a partial blockage without you having to dismantle anything.

Safe checks you can do now

If there is no suspected gas leak, no sewage backing up and no active leak, there are a few simple checks you can try before booking a tradesperson.

Run cold water, then hot water, for a minute or two to refill the trap and move loose residue.
Remove obvious food debris from the plughole, strainer and around the sink, then clean those visible surfaces.
Pour washing-up liquid into the plughole and flush with hot tap water to help shift light grease.
Check whether the smell is worse after using the dishwasher, washing machine or sink waste disposal, if you have one.
Look inside the under-sink cupboard from a normal standing position and check for damp patches, swelling, black spots, staining or a wet smell.
Avoid mixing chemicals, especially bleach with vinegar, limescale remover or drain cleaner.

Do not remove the U-bend or trap unless you are confident, have a container ready and know how to refit it correctly. A badly refitted trap can leak or let drain smells back in, which makes the problem worse.

The most common causes of a smelly kitchen sink

1. The U-bend has dried out

The U-bend, also called a trap, is the curved section of waste pipe under the sink. It holds a small amount of water that acts as a seal between your kitchen and the drain system. If that water evaporates, drain smells can travel back up through the plughole.

This is common in sinks that have not been used for a while, such as in a vacant rental property, a holiday let or a utility area. Running water for a couple of minutes may be enough to refill the trap. If the smell disappears and stays away, the issue was probably a dry trap.

If it comes back quickly, the trap may be leaking, fitted badly or being emptied by a pressure problem elsewhere in the waste system. That is when a plumber should take a look.

2. Food, fat and grease have built up in the waste pipe

Kitchen sinks deal with cooking water, crumbs, oil, sauces and tiny food particles. Over time, grease can cling to the inside of the waste pipe and trap other debris. Even if the sink still drains, the residue can smell sour or stale.

You may notice this more after cooking, washing pans or running hot water, because warmth can release the smell. A sink strainer, wiping pans before washing them and putting fats in the bin rather than down the sink can reduce the chance of it returning.

If the smell keeps coming back despite normal cleaning, a plumber can remove and clean the trap, check for a partial blockage and make sure the waste run is set up properly.

3. There is a partial blockage

A partial blockage is not always dramatic. The sink might drain, but more slowly than usual. You might hear gurgling, see water briefly rise in the plughole or notice the smell after another appliance empties into the same waste pipe.

This is often caused by a mix of grease, food waste, coffee grounds, rice, pasta, soap residue and general debris. Caustic drain cleaners can sometimes move a small blockage, but they can also leave chemicals sitting in the pipe if the blockage remains. That can make the job more unpleasant and less safe for whoever comes to fix it.

If there is gurgling, slow drainage or repeated smell, it is usually better to call a plumber rather than keep adding stronger chemicals.

4. The dishwasher or washing machine waste is connected incorrectly

Many kitchens have a dishwasher or washing machine waste hose connected under the sink. If that hose is not positioned correctly, waste water can sit in the hose or smells can travel back through the connection.

A clue is timing. If the sink smells worse just after the dishwasher finishes, or the smell appears when the washing machine drains, the appliance waste connection could be involved. A plumber can check the under-sink waste arrangement. If the appliance drum itself smells even when the sink is fine, an appliance engineer may be more appropriate.

5. The trap, waste pipe or venting was fitted badly

If the smell started after a new sink, worktop, kitchen refit or appliance installation, the installation is worth checking. Missing traps, poorly sealed joints, awkward pipe runs and incorrect waste connections can all allow odours to escape.

This is not always obvious from the outside. The sink may look tidy, but the waste setup inside the cupboard may not be doing its job. A plumber can identify whether the waste pipework needs adjusting rather than simply cleaning.

When to call a plumber, drainage specialist or another trade

A plumber is the right first call if the smell is coming from the plughole, the under-sink cupboard, the dishwasher waste connection or a suspected trap issue. They can deal with most kitchen sink waste problems and tell you if a drainage specialist is needed.

A drainage specialist is more likely to be needed if there are outdoor drain smells, sewage-like smells from several drains, a blocked gully, water backing up outside or repeated blockages that return after the sink waste has been cleared.

If a small leak has damaged the kitchen unit, start with a plumber to stop the moisture. After that, you may need a cleaner for mouldy surfaces or a carpenter and joiner if the cupboard base or surrounding units need repair.

If you are choosing someone for the first time, HaMuch has a practical guide on how to find a reliable plumber, including what to check before you agree to the work.

How much does it cost to fix a smelly kitchen sink?

The cost depends on what is causing the smell. A simple trap clean or refit is usually a smaller job than tracing a recurring blockage, correcting a poor installation or investigating an external drain issue. Location matters too, with rates varying between London, Birmingham, Manchester and surrounding areas.

This is where HaMuch is useful. Instead of giving you a vague national guess, HaMuch lets you check current plumber rates by location, compare local tradespeople, read genuine customer reviews and decide who to contact. It is free for homeowners and landlords to request quotes, and there is no obligation to book.

For landlords and property managers, getting a recurring sink smell checked promptly is sensible. Tenants may describe the issue differently, such as a bad drain smell, damp smell in the cupboard or rotten egg smell in the kitchen. Asking when it happens and whether the sink drains slowly can help you brief the plumber clearly.

When the smell needs urgent attention

Most kitchen sink smells are not emergencies, but some signs need faster action.

Call the National Gas Emergency Service immediately on 0800 111 999 if there is any chance the smell is gas. Do not use online quote forms or general troubleshooting for a suspected gas leak.

Arrange a same-day plumber or drainage specialist if sewage is backing up into the sink, several drains smell at once, water is escaping into the cupboard, the floor is wet or the smell is strong and getting worse. If water is near electrics, keep away from the area and get professional help.

How to prevent the smell coming back

Once the sink is sorted, prevention is mostly about keeping food, fat and stagnant water out of the waste system.

Use a sink strainer, scrape plates into the bin and wipe greasy pans with kitchen roll before washing them. Run plenty of water after rinsing food residue down the sink. If a sink is rarely used, run water through it every week or so to keep the trap topped up.

It is also worth paying attention after any kitchen work. If a smell starts soon after a new appliance, new sink or changed waste pipe, do not assume it is just normal settling in. A small installation issue can create a persistent smell until it is corrected.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my kitchen sink smell like rotten eggs? A rotten egg smell from the plughole is often caused by drain gases coming through a dry or faulty trap, or by a build-up of food and grease in the waste pipe. If the smell could be gas rather than drain odour, call the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999 straight away.

Can I fix a smell from kitchen sink drains myself? You may be able to clear a mild smell by cleaning visible debris, flushing the sink with hot water and washing-up liquid, and making sure the trap has water in it. If the smell returns, the sink drains slowly or there is damp under the cupboard, call a plumber.

Should I pour bleach down a smelly kitchen sink? Bleach may mask smells, but it often does not remove grease build-up or a blockage. Never mix bleach with vinegar, drain cleaner or other chemicals. If you have already used chemicals and need a plumber, tell them before they start work.

Who should I call for a sewage smell from the kitchen sink? Start with a plumber if the smell seems to come from the sink, trap or under-sink waste. If several drains smell, an outside drain is blocked or waste water is backing up, a drainage specialist may be needed.

Why does the smell come back after I clean the sink? Recurring smells usually mean the problem is deeper than the visible plughole. Common causes include grease inside the waste pipe, an incorrectly fitted trap, a dishwasher waste issue or a partial blockage further along the drain.

Get the smell sorted with the right local tradesperson

If your kitchen sink smell keeps returning, the safest next step is to get the waste pipework, trap and appliance connections checked properly. Post your job on HaMuch to compare local plumbers, see transparent pricing information and request quotes before deciding who to hire.

If you suspect gas, do not post a job first. Call 0800 111 999 immediately and follow the emergency advice.

Central Heating On But Radiators Staying Cold

2nd September 2026 Matt Warren

If your central heating is on but the radiators are staying cold, the good news is that the cause is often straightforward. It might be a closed radiator valve, trapped air or a simple control setting. It can also point to a fault with the boiler, pump or heating controls, especially if every radiator in the property is cold.

In most homes, this is mainly a heating engineer job, particularly if the heating is supplied by a gas boiler. A plumber may also help with radiator valves, pipework or individual radiator problems, but anything involving the boiler itself should be handled by a qualified heating engineer and, for gas boilers, a Gas Safe registered engineer.

Before you start trying to fix anything, do a few safe checks from outside the boiler and heating system. Do not remove the boiler cover, take apart valves or attempt gas work yourself.

If you can smell gas, call the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999 immediately. Open doors and windows, avoid using electrical switches, do not use naked flames and leave the property if advised. After the emergency has been made safe, only use a Gas Safe registered engineer for gas boiler work.

Quick checks you can do first

Start with the simple things. These checks will not solve every issue, but they can help you avoid an unnecessary call-out or give a heating engineer better information when you book.

Check the thermostat is set above the current room temperature.
Make sure the heating is actually on at the programmer or smart control, not just hot water.
Look at the boiler display for warning lights, fault codes or a low pressure reading.
Check radiator valves are open, especially if one room is colder than the rest.
See whether you still have hot water from taps.
Look for signs of leaks around radiators, ceilings or under the boiler.

If the boiler is showing a fault code, write it down or take a photo from a normal distance. Do not try to reset the boiler repeatedly. One reset may be enough after a minor issue, but repeated resetting can hide an underlying fault and may delay a proper repair.

What cold radiators usually mean

The pattern matters. One cold radiator is different from every radiator staying cold with the heating on. The table below gives you a practical way to narrow it down.

What you notice	Likely cause	Who usually handles it	Safe next step
All radiators are cold and there is no hot water	Boiler fault, power issue, low pressure or fuel supply problem	Heating engineer, Gas Safe if gas	Check controls and pressure from outside the boiler, then book an engineer
All radiators are cold but hot water still works	Faulty pump, motorised valve, thermostat or heating controls	Heating engineer	Book a heating diagnosis, especially if the boiler seems to run
Some radiators are hot and some are cold	Air in the system, poor balancing, stuck valves or sludge	Heating engineer or plumber	Try basic valve checks, then call if it keeps happening
One radiator is completely cold	Closed valve, stuck thermostatic valve or local pipework issue	Plumber or heating engineer	Check both valves are open, then book a repair if it stays cold
Radiator is cold at the top but warm lower down	Trapped air	Homeowner if confident, plumber or heating engineer if not	Bleed the radiator carefully, then check pressure if you have a sealed system
Radiator is cold at the bottom but warm at the top	Sludge or restricted circulation	Heating engineer	Ask about system cleaning, flushing or radiator removal if needed

For current call-out and hourly pricing, it is worth checking before you book. HaMuch lets you compare local heating engineer rates using transparent pricing data, so you can see what tradespeople typically charge in your area rather than relying on vague estimates. This is especially useful in places like London, Birmingham and Manchester, where availability and travel time can affect the final cost.

If every radiator is cold

When every radiator stays cold, the issue is usually not with the radiators themselves. It is more likely that hot water is not being sent around the heating circuit.

Common causes include a boiler fault, low system pressure, a failed pump, a problem with a motorised valve or controls that are not telling the boiler to heat the radiators. If your hot water has also stopped working, the boiler or its supply is more likely to be involved. If hot water still works but the radiators do not, the fault may be with the heating side of the system.

A low pressure reading can sometimes stop a sealed central heating system from working properly. Some homeowners are comfortable topping up boiler pressure using the filling loop, but only do this if your boiler manual clearly explains the process and you know what you are doing. If pressure keeps dropping after being topped up, there may be a leak or a pressure vessel issue, which needs a heating engineer.

Landlords and property managers should treat a no heating situation as a priority, particularly in cold weather or where tenants are elderly, disabled or have young children in the home. Keep a record of the report, the checks carried out and the tradesperson booked.

If only some radiators are cold

If some radiators are heating up but others are not, the boiler is probably producing heat. The problem is more likely to be circulation, trapped air, radiator valves or system balance.

Radiators furthest from the boiler can stay cooler if the system is not balanced properly. Balancing simply means adjusting how much hot water flows through each radiator, so the nearest radiators do not take most of the heat before it reaches the rest of the house. A heating engineer or plumber can do this safely and check for wider circulation problems at the same time.

Trapped air is another common cause. A radiator that is cold at the top but warm lower down often needs bleeding. Bleeding releases air so hot water can fill the radiator properly. If you bleed several radiators and the pressure drops, a sealed system may need repressurising afterwards. Again, only do this if you are confident and have the boiler instructions to hand.

If the same radiators keep going cold after bleeding, do not keep repeating the same fix. Recurring air can point to a leak, corrosion inside the system or a problem with how the system is sealed. At that stage, call a heating engineer rather than treating the symptom again.

If one radiator is cold

A single cold radiator often has a local cause. The thermostatic radiator valve, often called a TRV, may be turned down, stuck or faulty. The valve on the other side of the radiator may also have been closed during decorating, cleaning or previous repair work.

Try turning the radiator control up and giving the room time to warm. If the radiator remains completely cold but nearby radiators are hot, the valve may be stuck shut or the radiator may have an air or sludge problem. You can bleed the radiator if it is cold at the top and you know how to do it safely. If water does not come out, pressure may be low or there may be a blockage.

A plumber is often suitable for a single radiator valve replacement or radiator repair. A heating engineer is the better choice if the one cold radiator is part of a wider heating performance problem, especially where the boiler pressure, pump or controls also seem involved. If you are unsure, describe the symptoms clearly when posting the job so the right tradesperson can respond.

If radiators are cold at the bottom

A radiator that is warm at the top but cold at the bottom often points to sludge. Sludge is a dark, muddy build-up caused by corrosion inside the heating system. It settles in radiators and pipework, restricting the flow of hot water.

Sludge can make heating slower, noisier and less efficient. It can also put extra strain on the boiler and pump. A heating engineer may recommend cleaning the system, fitting or cleaning a magnetic filter, adding inhibitor or carrying out a power flush. The right option depends on the age of the system, the condition of the radiators and how widespread the cold spots are.

Do not assume every cold-bottom radiator needs a full power flush. Sometimes a single radiator can be removed and cleaned, or a smaller system clean may be enough. A good heating engineer should inspect the symptoms first and explain the options before recommending the most disruptive work.

If the boiler is working but the radiators are still cold

It is common to hear the boiler fire up and assume it must be working properly. In reality, a boiler can appear to run while heat is not reaching the radiators. A pump may not be circulating water, a valve may not be opening or the thermostat may not be communicating correctly with the boiler.

Smart thermostats and wireless controls can add another layer of confusion. Flat batteries, lost pairing, incorrect schedules or app settings can stop the heating from coming on when expected. If you have a smart thermostat, check the device itself as well as the app. Make sure it is calling for heat and not stuck in a schedule, holiday mode or eco setting.

If the boiler has not been serviced for a while, mention that when booking a repair. A service is not the same as a fault diagnosis, but regular servicing helps keep the boiler safe and can spot developing issues early. If you are planning maintenance after the immediate problem is fixed, HaMuch has a guide to annual boiler service costs that explains what is usually included.

When to call a heating engineer straight away

Some radiator problems can wait for a routine appointment, but others should be treated as urgent. Call a heating engineer promptly if you have no heating in cold weather, no heating and no hot water, a boiler fault code that keeps returning, a pressure gauge that keeps dropping or any signs of water leaking from the heating system.

You should also get help quickly if the property has vulnerable occupants or if you are responsible for a rental property. In those cases, the practical concern is not just comfort. A cold home can become unsafe, and a small leak or boiler issue can develop into a larger repair if ignored.

If an engineer tells you the boiler is beyond economical repair, do not feel pressured into an instant decision unless the situation is genuinely unsafe. Ask what has failed, whether parts are available and whether repair or replacement makes more sense for the age and condition of the boiler. If replacement is being discussed, use a guide such as HaMuch's breakdown of new boiler installation costs to understand the main pricing factors before comparing quotes.

What to tell the tradesperson when you book

Clear information helps the right tradesperson price and prioritise the job. It also reduces time spent diagnosing basic details on arrival.

Tell them whether all radiators are cold or only some, whether you have hot water, whether the boiler shows a fault code, what the pressure gauge reads and whether the problem started suddenly or gradually. Mention any recent work too, such as radiator replacement, decorating, a boiler service, a thermostat change or a leak repair.

For landlords, include access details, tenant availability and whether the property has any vulnerable occupants. If it is urgent, say so clearly when requesting quotes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why are my radiators staying cold when the heating is on? The most common reasons are trapped air, closed or stuck radiator valves, low boiler pressure, poor circulation, sludge or a boiler and controls fault. The pattern matters, so check whether all radiators are cold or only certain rooms.

Can I fix cold radiators myself? You can safely check the thermostat, timer settings and radiator valves. If you know how, you may also bleed a radiator. Do not remove the boiler cover, dismantle valves or attempt gas work. Call a heating engineer if the problem affects the whole system or keeps coming back.

Who should I call for cold radiators, a plumber or heating engineer? A heating engineer is usually best for whole-house heating problems, boiler faults, pumps, pressure issues and controls. A plumber may be suitable for an individual radiator valve, a radiator replacement or simple pipework issue.

Is it an emergency if the heating is on but radiators are cold? It can be urgent if you have no heating in cold weather, no hot water, vulnerable occupants or a rental property to manage. If you smell gas, call the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999 before doing anything else.

Should I keep resetting the boiler? No. One reset may clear a minor temporary fault, but repeated resets can mask a real problem. If the fault comes back, stop resetting and book a qualified heating engineer.

Need heating help now? Compare local quotes on HaMuch

If your central heating is on but the radiators are staying cold, do not wait for the house to get colder. Post the job on HaMuch and compare local heating engineers with real pricing information, customer reviews and no obligation to book.

For urgent no heating problems, explain the symptoms clearly and say whether you also have no hot water, vulnerable occupants or a rental property involved. HaMuch helps you compare before you decide, using transparent pricing rather than guesswork.

Wallpaper Peeling Away From the Wall

1st September 2026 Matt Warren

Wallpaper peeling away from the wall is annoying, but it is also useful evidence. If the wall is dry and only one seam has lifted, it may be a simple decorating repair. If the paper feels damp, smells musty or keeps coming loose after you stick it back, the wallpaper is probably showing you a problem behind the surface.

If you searched for wallpaper peeling off wall because it has suddenly started lifting, start with a few quick checks before buying more paste. The right next step depends on whether this is a decorating issue, a damp issue, a leak or a plaster problem.

Quick checks before you try to fix it

Do not pull large sheets off straight away. You may remove useful clues, and if the wall is damp you could make a small repair look much worse.

Start by looking at where the wallpaper is peeling. Paper lifting near a window, external wall, chimney breast, bathroom, kitchen or radiator can point to moisture. Paper lifting across a whole room, especially soon after decorating, often points to poor wall preparation or paste failure.

Use the back of your hand to feel the wall lightly. If it feels cold and slightly damp, or if there is a musty smell, staining, black specks, bubbling paint or soft plaster underneath, treat the wallpaper as a symptom rather than the main problem.

If water is actively dripping or running down the wall, turn off the water at the stop tap if you can do so safely and call a plumber. If the wall is wet near sockets, switches or electrical fittings, do not touch the electrics. Turn off the affected circuit only if it is safe and easy to do, then get professional help.

Common causes of wallpaper peeling and who to call

Most dry peeling wallpaper is handled by a painter and decorator. If the wall is wet, crumbling or stained, another trade may need to fix the root cause before any redecorating will last. You can compare current painter and decorator rates on HaMuch before asking for quotes, which helps you avoid vague national averages and see real local pricing.

Likely cause	What you might notice	Trade usually needed first
Poor surface preparation	Dry seams lifting, paper coming away in sheets, no staining or smell	Painter & Decorator
Old paste or old wallpaper	Edges curling, brittle paper, gaps at seams	Painter & Decorator
Condensation	Peeling near windows, external walls or behind furniture, possible black mould	Ventilation & AC Engineer, then Painter & Decorator
Plumbing leak	Localised damp patch, staining, peeling below a bathroom or near a radiator	Plumber
Penetrating damp	Peeling after rain, damp on an external wall, chimney breast or ceiling edge	Builder or roofing and guttering specialist
Damaged or fresh plaster	Bubbling, hollow patches, powdery plaster or paper not sticking to new walls	Plasterer, then Painter & Decorator
Heat and steam	Peeling in kitchens, bathrooms or behind radiators	Painter & Decorator, sometimes Ventilation & AC Engineer

This table is a guide, not a diagnosis. The important point is sequence. If moisture is causing the paper to lift, a decorator can make it look better for a short time, but the wallpaper will often peel again until the damp, leak or ventilation issue is fixed.

When it is probably a decorating problem

A straightforward decorating issue is likely when the wall feels dry, there are no brown stains, no mould, no soft plaster and the peeling is mainly at seams or corners. This can happen when wallpaper has been hung over dusty plaster, shiny paint, old paste residue or a wall that was not properly sealed before papering.

It can also happen if the wallpaper is old. Paste weakens over time, especially in rooms with changing temperatures. South-facing rooms, radiator walls and homes that have been empty for a while can all have curling edges without there being a leak.

A painter and decorator may repair a small lifted seam with specialist seam adhesive, smooth down blisters, strip and rehang a damaged section or recommend removing and repapering the wall. If several drops of paper are loose, patching may not be the best use of money because the remaining adhesive may already be failing.

For landlords and property managers, it is worth asking the decorator whether the repair is cosmetic or whether they can see signs of a deeper fault. That note can help you decide whether to send another trade before redecorating a rental property.

When peeling wallpaper points to damp, leaks or ventilation

Moisture is one of the most common reasons wallpaper peels away from a wall. Wallpaper paste is water based, so damp can soften it, loosen the bond and leave the paper bubbling or curling.

Condensation is common in bedrooms, bathrooms and kitchens. Warm moist air settles on cold surfaces, especially external walls, window reveals and corners with poor airflow. If the paper is peeling behind a wardrobe, near a window or in a room with regular black mould, the problem may be ventilation rather than a hidden leak. A Ventilation & AC Engineer can advise on extractor fans, airflow and practical improvements, while a decorator can repair the finish once the wall is dry.

In rental homes, damp and mould should be taken seriously. GOV.UK guidance on damp and mould in rented property makes clear that landlords should identify and deal with the underlying cause rather than simply treating mould as a housekeeping issue.

A plumbing leak is more likely when peeling is localised below a bathroom, near a radiator, behind a kitchen unit or on a ceiling line under a water source. If you suspect a leak, compare local plumber rates on HaMuch before booking, or use HaMuch's checklist for finding a reliable plumber if you have not hired one before.

Penetrating damp usually starts from outside. Rainwater can get in through cracked render, damaged brickwork, faulty gutters, failed seals around windows or roofline problems. In that case, a builder or roofing and guttering specialist usually needs to investigate before the inside wall is repaired. You can check current builder rates by location if the wallpaper is peeling on an external wall and the issue gets worse after rain.

If the wallpaper is peeling because the plaster underneath is loose, powdery or blown, a decorator may not be able to guarantee a lasting finish. A plasterer may need to repair or skim the wall first. HaMuch also lists plasterer rates, which is useful if you need to budget for wall preparation before decorating.

How much might it cost to sort?

The cost depends less on the wallpaper itself and more on what is causing it to peel. A dry seam repair is very different from a damp wall that needs a leak fixed, plaster repaired and the room redecorated.

HaMuch is built to make this easier to compare. Instead of giving you one vague figure for the whole country, HaMuch shows real, comparable pricing by trade and UK location. That matters because labour rates can vary between large city areas, surrounding towns and smaller local markets.

Cost factor	Why it changes the quote
Size of the affected area	A small seam repair is quicker than stripping and repapering a full wall
Whether the wall is dry	Damp walls need the cause fixed and drying time before decorating
Condition of the plaster	Crumbly or hollow plaster may need repair before wallpaper will stick
Access	High walls, stairwells and awkward corners take longer
Matching existing wallpaper	Older or discontinued wallpaper may make patch repairs harder
Number of trades needed	A plumber, builder or plasterer may be needed before the decorator

If you are comparing quotes, ask each tradesperson what is included. For example, does the decorator include stripping loose paper, preparing the wall and supplying adhesive, or is the quote only for hanging new paper? If a plumber fixes a leak, will they make good the wall, or will you need a plasterer and decorator afterwards?

Can you fix peeling wallpaper yourself?

If the wall is completely dry and only a small seam has lifted, a DIY repair may be enough. Gently lift the loose edge, remove dusty old adhesive, apply wallpaper seam adhesive, smooth it back down with a clean cloth and wipe away excess adhesive. Keep the room at a steady temperature while it dries.

Do not glue wet wallpaper back onto the wall. It may trap moisture, encourage mould and hide a leak for longer. You should also avoid painting over peeling wallpaper unless you are sure the surface is dry, sound and firmly stuck down. Paint can make peeling edges more obvious and harder to repair neatly.

If the wallpaper is bubbling over a wide area, the plaster feels soft or the same patch keeps peeling after repair, it is time to get a tradesperson involved. A good decorator will tell you if the job is not ready for decorating yet, which can save you paying twice for the same wall.

What to tell a tradesperson when asking for quotes

A clear job description helps you get more accurate quotes. Before posting the job, take photos from the room and from a closer distance, but avoid pulling large areas off the wall. Note whether the wall feels damp, whether the peeling changes after rain, whether there is mould and whether there is a bathroom, kitchen, radiator or external wall nearby.

If you manage a rental property, include when the tenant first reported the problem and whether it is affecting one room or several. If there has been a previous leak or decorating work, mention it. This helps the right trade respond rather than sending a decorator to what is really a plumbing or damp issue.

You do not need to diagnose the fault perfectly. Describe what you can see and feel. A useful description might be: wallpaper peeling on external bedroom wall, cold to touch, slight black mould near window, worse in winter. That points a tradesperson towards ventilation and damp checks rather than a simple paste repair.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my wallpaper peeling away from the wall? Wallpaper usually peels because the adhesive has failed, the wall was not prepared properly, the paper is old or moisture is affecting the wall. Moisture can come from condensation, a plumbing leak or rain getting through the outside of the property.

Does peeling wallpaper always mean damp? No. Dry peeling at seams or corners is often a decorating issue. Damp is more likely if the wall feels wet or cold, has brown staining, smells musty, has mould or the peeling keeps coming back after repair.

Who should I call for wallpaper peeling off the wall? For dry peeling, call a painter and decorator. For wet patches near pipework, bathrooms or radiators, call a plumber first. For crumbling plaster, call a plasterer. For rain related damp on an external wall, a builder or roofing and guttering specialist may be needed before decorating.

Can a decorator repair peeling wallpaper in one visit? Sometimes, yes, if it is a small dry seam or corner. If the wall needs stripping, drying, plaster repair or leak repairs, it may take more than one visit and another trade may need to attend first.

Should I remove the wallpaper before getting quotes? Usually, no. Photos of the wallpaper as it is can help tradespeople understand the pattern of the problem. Only remove loose paper if it is already falling away and safe to do so. Do not strip damp wallpaper near electrics.

Is peeling wallpaper a landlord repair issue? It can be. If the peeling is caused by damp, leaks, defective plaster or poor ventilation in the property, the landlord normally needs to investigate and arrange repairs. If it is simple wear and tear or minor cosmetic damage, the response may depend on the tenancy and the cause.

Get the right trade to look at it

If your wallpaper is peeling and you are not sure whether to call a decorator, plumber, plasterer or builder, post the job on HaMuch. Describe where the wallpaper is lifting, whether the wall feels damp and whether the problem changes after rain, heating or shower use.

HaMuch lets you request quotes from local tradespeople, compare genuine reviews and check transparent pricing before you decide. It is free for homeowners to use, and there is no obligation to book until you are happy with who you have found.

Electric Shower Suddenly Running Cold

30th August 2026 Matt Warren

If your electric shower suddenly runs cold, it is usually one of three things: the shower is not getting the right water flow, the unit is not heating properly or there is an electrical fault stopping

The good news is that you can do a few simple checks without touching anything dangerous. The key is knowing where to stop. Electric showers mix water and high-powered electrics, so you should never remove the cover, poke inside the unit or keep resetting a tripping fuse box to “see if it works this time”.

This guide explains why an electric shower keeps going cold, what you can safely check now and whether you need an electrician, a plumber or both.

First, stop using the shower if there are warning signs

A cold shower is annoying, but some symptoms mean you should turn it off and get help quickly. Stop using the shower if you notice a burning smell, buzzing, crackling, flickering lights, scorch marks, water leaking from the shower casing or a consumer unit that trips when the shower is switched on.

If the shower has tripped the electrics, do not keep resetting the switch. Repeated tripping can point to a faulty shower unit, damaged wiring, water getting where it should not or an overloaded circuit. HaMuch has a separate guide on what to do when a fuse box keeps tripping for no obvious reason, but for an electric shower fault you should treat it as a job for a qualified electrician.

If there is water leaking from the shower unit itself, switch it off at the pull cord or isolator only if it is safe and dry to do so. Keep clear of the shower and call a tradesperson.

Why an electric shower can suddenly run cold

An electric shower works differently from a mixer shower. It does not usually use hot water from your boiler or cylinder. Instead, it takes cold mains water and heats it instantly inside the shower unit.

That means a cold electric shower is not normally caused by your boiler. Your hot kitchen tap may be fine, but the shower can still run cold because the problem is inside the shower unit, the electrical supply or the incoming cold water flow.

A useful way to think about it is this: the shower has to balance water flow and heat. If the water moves through too quickly, it may not heat enough. If the flow drops too low, the unit may cut the heat for safety. If an internal part fails, the shower may run completely cold even though water still comes out.

Safe checks you can do before calling someone

Before you book a tradesperson, check the simple things from outside the shower unit. These checks may help you describe the fault clearly, and in some cases they may solve a minor issue.

Check the temperature dial has not been moved to cold or eco mode.
Turn the flow down slightly and see whether the water warms up.
Remove and descale the showerhead if the spray is weak or uneven.
Check whether the problem happens when another tap, washing machine or toilet is being used.
Look at the consumer unit to see whether the shower circuit or RCD has tripped.
Check whether the pull cord or isolator switch is fully on, but do not touch it if it is wet, damaged or discoloured.

Do not remove the shower cover. Even when the shower is switched off at the front panel, parts of the circuit may still be dangerous unless properly isolated and tested.

If turning the flow down makes the shower warm again, the unit may be struggling to heat the amount of water passing through it. If there is no heat at all, or if the shower heats for a short time then goes cold again, it is more likely to need a professional check.

Common causes and who to call

The same symptom can point to different faults, so the right trade depends on what else is happening. In many cases, an electrician is the first person to call because the heating parts and power supply are inside the electric shower unit. A plumber may be needed where the issue is water pressure, pipework, valves or a leak.

What you notice	Likely cause	Trade to call
Shower runs warm, then cold when the flow is high	Water is passing through too quickly for the unit to heat it	Electrician or plumber, depending on whether the unit or flow is the issue
Low pressure light comes on and the water goes cold	Poor mains pressure, blocked filter, limescale or restricted water supply	Plumber
Power light is on but the water is cold	Failed heating element, thermostat, thermal cut-out or internal fault	Electrician
Consumer unit trips when the shower is used	Electrical fault, moisture, faulty element or circuit problem	Electrician urgently
Shower goes cold when other taps are used	Shared mains supply pressure drop	Plumber
Old shower becomes unreliable or needs repeated resets	Unit may be nearing the end of its working life	Electrician, plus a plumber if pipework changes are needed

If you are unsure, describe the full symptom when requesting quotes. “Electric shower suddenly running cold, no tripping, low pressure light on” points to a different job from “electric shower cold and RCD trips every time”.

When the problem is water flow or pressure

Electric showers need enough water pressure to work, but too much flow can also make the water cooler because the unit has less time to heat it. This is why some showers feel colder in winter, when the incoming mains water is much colder than in summer.

If the shower has been fine for months and suddenly runs cold, look for changes. Has a new appliance been fitted? Is the pressure lower at other cold taps? Does the shower only go cold when someone flushes a toilet or runs a kitchen tap? These clues point towards a plumbing or mains pressure issue rather than a failed shower heater.

Limescale can also cause trouble, especially in hard water areas. A scaled showerhead can restrict the spray pattern and affect flow through the unit. Descaling the showerhead is safe and cheap, but if the problem is inside the inlet filter or valve, a plumber should deal with it.

For water pressure, valves, leaks or supply pipe issues, compare local costs on HaMuch’s plumber rates page before booking. It helps you see realistic trade rates by area rather than relying on vague estimates.

When the problem is inside the shower unit

If water comes out at a normal rate but stays cold, the fault may be inside the shower. Common culprits include the heating element, thermostat, pressure switch, thermal cut-out or wiring within the unit.

These are not DIY parts. Electric showers draw a lot of power and sit in a bathroom environment where water and electricity are close together. A qualified electrician can test the supply safely, check whether the shower is receiving power correctly and confirm whether the unit can be repaired or should be replaced.

In some cases, replacement is more sensible than repair, especially for an older shower where parts are hard to source or several components are worn. If it is a straightforward like-for-like replacement, an electrician may be able to handle the job. If pipework needs altering, a plumber may also be required.

Before agreeing to work, ask whether the quote includes testing, fitting, certification where needed and disposal of the old unit. If you are in London, Birmingham or Manchester, the same job can vary in cost because travel time, parking, availability and local demand all affect pricing. HaMuch lets you compare electrician rates by trade and UK location, so you can check what is typical before you accept a quote.

If the shower trips the fuse box

A shower that trips the fuse box or RCD should be treated differently from a shower that simply runs cold. Tripping means the electrical system has detected a fault or unsafe condition. It could be the shower unit, the cable, the isolator, the circuit protection or moisture affecting the electrics.

Do not keep switching it back on. If it trips once and then works, you may be tempted to ignore it, but if it happens again you should stop using the shower until it has been checked.

Call an electrician and explain exactly what happens. For example, say whether it trips as soon as you pull the cord, when you press start, after a few minutes of running or only on the hottest setting. That timing helps the electrician narrow down the likely fault.

Repair or replace: how to decide

Whether to repair or replace an electric shower depends on the age of the unit, the availability of parts, the condition of the existing circuit and whether the shower is powerful enough for your household.

A small external issue, such as a scaled showerhead or reduced water pressure, may be inexpensive to sort. An internal electrical fault can be less straightforward. If the shower is old, unreliable or has already needed several repairs, a replacement may be the better long-term option.

The replacement also needs to suit the existing electrical circuit. You cannot simply fit a more powerful shower because you want better performance. The cable, protective device and installation must be suitable for the shower rating. That is why an electrician should check before any upgrade.

For landlords and property managers, the safest route is to get the shower inspected promptly, keep a record of the repair and use appropriately qualified tradespeople. A tenant reporting an electric shower suddenly running cold may be describing a comfort issue, but if tripping, burning smells or leaks are involved, it becomes a safety issue.

What affects the cost of fixing an electric shower?

HaMuch avoids vague guesswork by showing real, comparable pricing data for UK tradespeople. The final cost will still depend on what is wrong and where the property is.

Cost factor	Why it matters
Fault type	A simple flow issue is very different from an electrical fault inside the unit
Repair versus replacement	Replacement may involve fitting a new shower, testing and disposal of the old one
Access	Awkward bathrooms, tight airing cupboards or difficult cable routes can add time
Location	Rates can vary between large cities, commuter towns and smaller areas
Urgency	Same-day or out-of-hours attendance usually costs more than a planned visit
Extra trades	Some jobs need both an electrician and a plumber

When requesting quotes, give the shower make and model if you can see it safely, describe the fault in plain English and mention any tripping, leaks or pressure warnings. Photos of the shower from a normal distance can also help, but do not take anything apart to get a better picture.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my electric shower go cold after a few minutes? It may be losing heat because of low water pressure, a flow problem, limescale, a thermal cut-out or a fault inside the shower unit. If it happens repeatedly, stop using it and get it checked.

Is it my boiler if the electric shower keeps going cold? Usually not. Most electric showers heat cold mains water inside the shower unit, so the boiler is normally separate. If your hot taps work but the electric shower is cold, the shower, water supply or electrical circuit is more likely.

Can I fix an electric shower myself? You can safely check the settings, descale the showerhead and look for obvious pressure changes. You should not remove the shower cover or work on the electrics. Call an electrician for internal faults or tripping issues.

Should I call a plumber or an electrician for a cold electric shower? Call an electrician if the shower has power but no heat, trips the electrics, smells hot or seems faulty inside the unit. Call a plumber if the problem looks like low pressure, restricted flow, a leak or pipework trouble.

Can I keep using the shower if it only runs cold? If there are no electrical warning signs, using cold water briefly may not be dangerous, but it will not fix the fault. If there is tripping, leaking from the unit, buzzing, flickering lights or a burning smell, stop using it immediately.

Need the shower fixed? Compare local quotes on HaMuch

If your electric shower has suddenly started running cold, do not guess at the fault or accept the first unclear quote. Post the job on HaMuch and compare local electricians and plumbers with genuine customer reviews and transparent, comparable pricing.

For urgent warning signs such as tripping electrics, burning smells or water leaking from the shower casing, switch the shower off if safe and request an electrician as soon as possible. For pressure or water flow problems, a plumber may be the right first call. HaMuch helps you compare before you decide, with no obligation to book.

Grout Turning Black or Crumbling in the Shower

30th August 2026 Matt Warren

Black grout in a shower is common, but it is not something to ignore if the grout is also crumbling, cracking or falling out. In many homes it is simply surface mould feeding on soap residue and damp

Black grout in a shower is common, but it is not something to ignore if the grout is also crumbling, cracking or falling out. In many homes it is simply surface mould feeding on soap residue and damp air. In others, it is a sign that water is getting behind the tiles or that the seal around the shower tray has failed.

The aim is to work out which situation you have, then call the right trade before a small bathroom job turns into damaged plasterboard, loose tiles or a leak into the room below.

First, decide whether it is a cleaning issue or a repair issue

A useful starting point is the simple wipe test. If the black marks mostly come off with bathroom cleaner and the grout underneath feels hard, you are probably dealing with surface mould or staining. If the grout feels sandy, has holes in it or comes away when gently rubbed, the grout has failed and cleaning will not fix the problem.

Try these quick checks before you book anyone:

Wipe a small black patch with a suitable bathroom cleaner and see whether it lifts from the surface.
Press gently on nearby tiles. If any tile moves, sounds hollow or feels loose, stop using the shower until it has been checked.
Look at the silicone seal around the shower tray, bath edge and corners. Gaps, peeling or black staining under the seal can let water escape.
Check the ceiling or wall below the bathroom for damp marks, bubbling paint or a musty smell.
Notice whether the black marks return quickly after cleaning, as that often points to poor ventilation or constant moisture.

If water is dripping through a ceiling, running down a wall or reaching lights, switches or sockets, stop using the shower straight away. Do not touch wet electrical fittings. In that situation you may need a plumber urgently, followed by a tiler or builder once the leak has been made safe.

Why shower grout turns black

Shower grout is exposed to warm water, body oils, shampoo, soap residue and steam every day. That makes it one of the hardest working surfaces in a bathroom. Even good grout can become stained if the room stays damp for long periods.

The most common cause of black shower grout is mould growing on the surface. Bathrooms with weak extractor fans, no opening window or poor airflow give mould the damp conditions it needs. The NHS advice on damp and mould explains that mould can affect health, especially for people with allergies, asthma or weaker immune systems, so it is worth dealing with the moisture source rather than just wiping the marks away.

Black staining can also appear when grout has become porous with age. Cement-based grout is water-resistant, but it is not a complete waterproof barrier on its own. When grout cracks or wears away, water can sit behind the tile surface. Over time that can soften adhesive, damage the wall behind the tiles or create a damp smell that does not go away after cleaning.

Another common culprit is failed silicone sealant. The flexible seal around a shower tray or bath edge is there because these areas move slightly as people stand in the shower and the tray fills with water. Grout is rigid, so it often cracks in corners or edges where silicone should have been used. If the sealant is black, peeling or split, water may be slipping into the gap every time the shower runs.

Crumbling grout can also be caused by old age, poor original mixing, applying grout too thinly or cleaning with harsh acidic products. Strong descalers and abrasive scrubbing can wear grout down faster, especially in hard water areas.

Which trade should you call?

Most black or crumbling shower grout problems are a tiler job, but not always. The right person depends on what else you can see.

What you can see	Likely cause	Who usually deals with it
Black marks wipe away and grout feels solid	Surface mould, soap residue or poor ventilation	Cleaner first, then a Ventilation & AC Engineer if the extractor fan is poor
Grout is powdery, missing or cracked but tiles are firm	Failed or ageing grout	Tiler
Black sealant around the shower tray is peeling or split	Failed silicone seal	Tiler, bathroom fitter or plumber depending on the shower setup
Tiles are loose or the wall feels soft	Water has got behind the tiles	Tiler, with a plumber first if a leak is suspected
Damp patch appears below the bathroom after showering	Leak from shower waste, pipework or failed waterproofing	Plumber first, then tiler or builder for repairs

When cleaning is enough

Cleaning is a reasonable first step when the grout is intact and the black marks look like they are sitting on the surface. Use a bathroom mould remover that is suitable for tiles and grout, follow the label instructions and keep the room well ventilated. Wear gloves and never mix bleach-based products with other cleaners.

After cleaning, dry the shower area and watch what happens over the next few days. If the black staining returns almost immediately, the cleaner is only treating the symptom. The room may need better extraction, the shower may be staying wet too long or there may be water sitting behind a failing seal.

For landlords and property managers, it is sensible to keep photos before and after cleaning, note when the tenant reported the issue and arrange repairs promptly if the grout is breaking down. That paper trail helps show that you responded properly and did not treat a repair problem as ordinary cleaning.

When the shower needs regrouting

If grout is cracked, missing or crumbling, a tiler will usually remove the loose grout and replace it. This is more than cosmetic. Good grout helps shed water from the tile surface and stops dirt and moisture collecting in gaps.

Regrouting is usually suitable when the tiles are still firmly attached and the wall behind them appears sound. A tiler may also recommend replacing old silicone at the same visit, especially around the shower tray, bath edge and vertical corners. That is often the difference between a tidy-looking repair and one that actually keeps water where it belongs.

Do not simply grout over loose, wet or mouldy grout. New grout needs a clean, stable surface. If the old grout is crumbling because the wall behind the tiles is damp or the tiles are moving, a surface repair may fail again quickly.

When to suspect a hidden leak

Black grout alone does not automatically mean your shower is leaking, but crumbling grout plus damp patches is a stronger warning sign. Be more cautious if the floor outside the shower feels damp, skirting boards are swelling, paint is bubbling on the wall below or the bathroom smells musty even when dry.

A plumber is the first call if there is evidence of water escaping from pipework, the shower waste or the area under the shower tray. You can compare local plumber rates on HaMuch before booking, and if you are not sure what to look for, HaMuch also has a plain-English checklist on choosing a reliable plumber.

Once the plumbing fault is fixed, a tiler, bathroom fitter or builder may be needed to repair the wall, replace damaged boards or retile the area. The key is to fix the source of moisture before making the shower look good again.

How much could it cost to fix black or crumbling shower grout?

The cost depends on the size of the shower, how much grout needs removing, whether silicone needs replacing and whether there is hidden water damage. A small regrouting job is very different from removing loose tiles, drying the area and replacing damaged backing.

Location matters too. Labour rates can vary between smaller towns and larger cities, especially where parking, travel time and demand affect availability. Before booking a tiler in London, Birmingham or Manchester, you can use HaMuch to compare real hourly and daily rates from local tradespeople rather than relying on vague national averages.

That is where HaMuch is designed to be useful. You can see comparable pricing information, read genuine customer reviews and request quotes without being obliged to book. For a job like shower grout repair, where the visible problem may hide a leak or failed seal, comparing a few local tradespeople helps you understand who is best suited to inspect it properly.

How to stop black grout coming back

Once the grout has been cleaned or replaced, keeping the shower dry is the most effective long-term habit. Run the extractor fan during showers and for a while afterwards, or open a window where possible. Wiping down tiles with a squeegee takes less than a minute and removes much of the water that mould relies on.

Avoid leaving bottles pressed against tiled corners, as they trap moisture and soap residue. Use gentle bathroom cleaners rather than harsh acids unless the product clearly says it is safe for grout. If the silicone seal starts lifting, deal with it early. A thin gap around a tray can let in a surprising amount of water over time.

If the bathroom has persistent mould on grout, windows and walls, the issue may be ventilation rather than cleaning. A Ventilation & AC Engineer can check whether the extractor fan is suitable for the room and working as it should.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is black grout in a shower always mould? Not always. It is often surface mould or staining, but black grout can also be caused by old grout becoming porous, failed silicone, water sitting behind tiles or dirt trapped in cracked grout.

Can I just bleach black shower grout? Bleach-based bathroom products may lighten surface mould, but they will not repair cracked or crumbling grout. Always follow the product label, ventilate the room and never mix cleaning chemicals.

Who fixes crumbling grout in a shower? A tiler usually fixes crumbling grout, especially if the tiles are still firm. If there are damp patches, leaks or water damage below the bathroom, call a plumber first.

Does crumbling grout mean the shower has to be retiled? Not always. If the tiles and wall behind them are sound, regrouting may be enough. If tiles are loose or the wall is damp, some tiles may need to come off so the damaged area can be repaired properly.

Should I stop using the shower? Stop using it if grout is missing, tiles are loose, water is appearing outside the shower or there are damp marks below. If it is only light surface staining and the grout is solid, you can clean it while arranging a non-urgent check if the problem keeps returning.

Get local help before the damage spreads

If your shower grout is turning black but still solid, start with cleaning and better ventilation. If it is crumbling, cracking or letting water into gaps, it is time to get it checked by a local tiler. If there is any sign of an active leak, bring in a plumber first and avoid using the shower until it has been assessed.

You can request quotes through HaMuch and compare local tradespeople with transparent pricing, reviews and no obligation to book. Describe what you can see, mention whether the grout is black, crumbling or missing and include any damp patches nearby so the right trade can respond with a realistic quote.

Bath or Sink Draining Very Slowly

29th August 2026 Matt Warren

A bath or sink draining very slowly is one of those household problems that starts as a nuisance, then quickly becomes difficult to ignore. Water sits around your feet in the shower, the basin takes a

In most homes, the cause is a partial blockage rather than a serious plumbing fault. Hair, soap residue, food scraps, grease and general build-up can narrow the pipe until water struggles to get through. The good news is that there are a few safe things you can check before calling anyone out. The key is knowing when DIY is sensible and when it is time to call a plumber.

If only one bath, sink or basin is draining slowly, the blockage is usually close to that fixture. If several drains are slow at once, or dirty water is coming back up, treat it as more urgent and get professional help.

What to do first if your bath or sink is draining slowly

Start by using the affected bath or sink as little as possible. A slow drain can become a full blockage, especially if more water, soap, food waste or bath products keep going into it.

Before trying any fix, check whether the problem is limited to one place. Run a little water in nearby fixtures and watch how they drain. For example, if the bathroom basin is slow but the bath and toilet are normal, the issue is probably local to the basin waste. If the bath, basin and kitchen sink are all slow, the blockage may be further along the waste pipe or external drain.

Remove any obvious surface debris from the plughole. In a bathroom, hair is the usual culprit. In a kitchen, scraps of food or congealed fat can sit just below the plughole and slow the flow. Wear rubber gloves and avoid pushing anything further down.

Do not keep pouring boiling water, bleach or strong chemicals down the drain in the hope that it will clear itself. Some products can damage seals or make the job more unpleasant for a plumber. If you have already used a chemical drain cleaner, tell the plumber before they start work.

Common causes of a slow draining bath or sink

A slow draining sink or bath can have several causes, but most fall into a handful of common patterns. The table below shows what might be happening and who normally deals with it.

Symptom	Likely cause	Who to call
Bathroom basin drains slowly only	Hair, soap scum or toothpaste build-up near the plughole	Plumber
Bath or shower tray fills while in use	Hair and soap build-up in the trap or waste pipe	Plumber
Kitchen sink drains slowly after cooking or washing up	Grease, fat, food scraps or detergent residue	Plumber
Sink glugs or smells when draining	Partial blockage, poor pipe flow or air movement issue	Plumber
Several sinks, bath or shower are slow	Blockage further along the waste pipe or drain	Plumber, sometimes a drainage specialist
Dirty water comes back up into another fixture	More serious blockage or shared waste problem	Plumber urgently

For most indoor slow-drain problems, a plumber is the right first trade. They can clear local blockages, remove and clean traps, check waste pipes and advise if the issue is actually outside the property. If the problem is in a shared drain, sewer or external pipe, you may need a drainage specialist or your water company, but a plumber can usually help identify that.

If you are trying to judge whether a quote is fair, check the current plumber rates on HaMuch before booking. HaMuch shows real, comparable pricing by trade and location, so you are not relying on vague call-out estimates.

Safe fixes you can try yourself

If the water is draining slowly but not completely blocked, there are a few low-risk steps worth trying. Stop if the problem gets worse, if water starts backing up or if you are unsure how to reassemble anything you remove.

A simple plunger can work well on sinks and baths when there is a partial blockage. Make sure there is enough water to cover the rubber cup, cover any overflow opening with a damp cloth and use steady up-and-down pressure. The aim is to shift the blockage, not force the pipework apart.

For a bathroom basin or bath, a plastic drain hair remover can pull out hair near the plughole. These are cheap and can be effective, but use them gently so you do not damage the waste fitting.

For a kitchen sink, warm water with washing-up liquid may help soften grease near the plughole. Avoid pouring large amounts of fat, oil or greasy water down the sink afterwards, as it can cool and harden further along the pipe.

If you are comfortable doing so, you may be able to unscrew and clean the trap under a basin or kitchen sink. The trap is the curved section below the plughole that holds water to stop smells coming back up. Put a bowl and towel underneath first, take a photo before you undo anything and do not overtighten the fittings when you put them back.

When you should call a plumber

Call a plumber if the bath or sink is still slow after basic checks, or if the same problem keeps coming back. Repeat blockages usually mean there is build-up further along the pipe, poor pipe alignment or another issue that cannot be fixed from the plughole.

You should also get help quickly if you notice any of the following:

Water backing up into the bath, shower or another sink
A bad drain smell that does not clear after cleaning
Gurgling from other plugholes when one fixture drains
Leaking from under the sink after you have tried to clear it
Slow drainage affecting more than one room
A rental property where tenants cannot use washing or bathing facilities properly

A plumber may clear the blockage manually, remove and clean the trap, use specialist rods or check whether the waste pipe needs repair. For more complex cases, they may recommend a camera inspection or drainage contractor, especially if the blockage appears to be outside the property.

Bath, bathroom sink or kitchen sink: what the location tells you

The room where the problem happens gives useful clues.

A slow draining bath is often caused by hair and soap products collecting in the trap. This is especially common in homes where several people use the same shower over the bath. If water pools around your feet within a minute or two, the restriction is likely close to the bath waste.

A bathroom basin usually blocks with a mixture of hair, toothpaste, shaving foam and soap residue. If the plughole also smells, the trap may need cleaning. This is normally a straightforward plumbing job unless access under the basin is awkward.

A slow kitchen sink is more likely to involve grease or food waste. Even if you use hot water, fats can cool inside the pipe and stick to the sides. Over time, the opening narrows and the sink drains more slowly. If you have a washing machine or dishwasher connected to the same waste, symptoms may show up when those appliances empty.

If the toilet is also affected, or water is coming up through a shower tray when another fixture drains, do not keep testing it. That points to a more significant blockage and you should call for help.

How much does it cost to fix a slow draining sink or bath?

The cost depends on what the plumber has to do, how accessible the pipework is and whether the problem is local or further along the drainage system. A simple trap clean is usually quicker than tracing a repeated blockage behind units, under a bath panel or outside the property.

Location also affects labour rates. Plumber pricing in London, Birmingham, Manchester and surrounding areas can vary due to travel time, parking, demand and whether the job is urgent. Rather than relying on a national average that may not match your area, HaMuch lets you compare local plumbers and see transparent rate information before you request quotes.

The main factors that influence the final price are:

Whether it is a normal appointment or an emergency call-out
Whether the blockage is in one fixture or several drains
How easy it is to access the trap and pipework
Whether parts need replacing, such as a damaged trap or waste fitting
Whether specialist drainage equipment is needed

If you also have a dripping or faulty tap at the same sink, that is a separate job from the drainage issue. You can check typical repair considerations in HaMuch's guide to how much it costs to fix a leaking tap, but a slow drain itself is normally about the waste pipe rather than the tap.

Advice for landlords and property managers

For rental homes, a slow drain is worth dealing with early. Tenants may keep using the bath or sink because it still drains eventually, but the blockage can worsen and lead to leaks, smells or unusable facilities.

Ask the tenant for clear details before booking a plumber. Which fixture is affected? How long does it take to drain? Are any other sinks, baths, showers or toilets slow? Has any drain cleaner been used? A short video can also help the plumber understand the problem before arriving.

If the property is in a block of flats or converted house, ask whether neighbours have similar symptoms. Shared drainage can complicate responsibility and may involve the freeholder, managing agent or water company.

How to prevent it happening again

Once the drain is clear, small habits make a big difference. Use a hair catcher in baths and showers, wipe grease from pans with kitchen roll before washing them and avoid rinsing coffee grounds or food scraps down the sink.

Clean plugholes regularly, especially in busy bathrooms. If a sink starts to slow again within days of being cleared, do not just repeat the same DIY fix. That usually means the underlying issue has not been solved.

For older homes, recurring slow drainage can sometimes be linked to poor pipe layout, long pipe runs or previous DIY plumbing alterations. A plumber can advise whether a repair or adjustment would be more sensible than repeatedly clearing the same blockage.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my sink draining slowly but not blocked? It is probably partially blocked. Water can still pass through, but hair, soap, grease or food residue has narrowed the pipe so it drains much more slowly.

Can I use chemical drain cleaner for a slow draining sink? You can use products according to the label, but they are not always the best option. Never mix drain cleaners with bleach or other chemicals, and tell your plumber if you have used one.

Why does my bath drain slowly after every shower? Hair and soap residue are the most common causes. A hair catcher and regular plughole cleaning can help, but if the problem returns quickly, the blockage may be deeper in the waste pipe.

Should I call a plumber or a drainage company? For one slow sink, basin or bath, call a plumber first. If several drains are affected or the blockage appears to be outside the property, a drainage specialist may be needed.

Is a slow draining sink an emergency? Not always. If it is only slow and water is not backing up, you can usually arrange a normal plumbing visit. If dirty water is coming back up, several fixtures are affected or there is leaking, treat it as urgent.

Need a plumber for a slow draining bath or sink?

If your bath or sink is still draining very slowly after simple checks, it is time to compare local help. With HaMuch, you can see transparent plumber pricing, compare tradespeople in your area and request quotes without any obligation to book.

Post your plumbing job on HaMuch and get clear, comparable quotes from local plumbers before you decide who to hire.

Kitchen Extractor Fan Not Pulling Any Air Through

28th August 2026 Matt Warren

If your kitchen extractor fan is running but steam, cooking smells and smoke are still hanging around, the problem is usually airflow rather than the whole appliance being beyond repair. A fan can sound as if it is working while clogged filters, blocked ducting or a weak motor stop it pulling air through properly.

Start with the simple checks you can do safely. If those do not improve the suction, the next step is to work out whether you need a ventilation and AC engineer, an electrician or another trade. This guide explains the most common causes, what to avoid and how to describe the job when you ask for quotes.

First, check what type of extractor you have

Kitchen extractors usually work in one of two ways. A ducted extractor pulls air through the hood and sends it outside through a wall, roof or duct run. A recirculating extractor pulls air through grease and charcoal filters, then blows it back into the room.

This matters because a recirculating hood will not push air outside, even when it is working correctly. If you are expecting to feel air at an outside vent but the unit was set up to recirculate, the fan may not be faulty at all. It may simply need fresh filters and better general ventilation, such as opening a window while cooking.

Look for an outside grille on the wall, a duct going through a cupboard above the hood or a switchable setting in the manual. If you have just moved into the property, do not assume the visible hood is ducted. Many flats and rented homes use recirculating extractors because ducting to an external wall is not always practical.

Safe checks to try before calling someone

Before touching the extractor, turn it off at the switch and let it cool. Do not put fingers, cloths or tools near moving fan blades. If the unit is hardwired and you suspect an electrical fault, stop there and call an electrician.

You can still carry out a few basic checks without dismantling anything:

Check the speed setting and isolator switch: Some cooker hoods have a separate wall switch or fused spur nearby. If the lights work but the fan does not, the control or fan motor could still be faulty.
Clean the grease filters: Metal mesh filters can become packed with grease, which restricts airflow. Wash them according to the manufacturer’s instructions, often in hot soapy water or a dishwasher if suitable.
Replace charcoal filters if fitted: Recirculating extractors often use charcoal filters that lose effectiveness over time. Many manufacturers suggest changing them every few months, depending on use.
Check the outside vent from ground level: If it is safe to see the grille, look for a stuck flap, leaves, cobwebs or obvious obstruction. Do not climb ladders or remove external covers if you are unsure.
Try opening a window slightly: Extractors need replacement air to enter the room. In very airtight homes, suction can feel weak unless there is a small source of fresh air.

A simple tissue test can help, but keep it away from any moving parts. Hold a light piece of tissue near the intake grille while the fan is running. If it barely moves after the filters have been cleaned, you are likely dealing with a ducting, installation or motor issue.

Common reasons a kitchen extractor fan is not pulling air

The table below gives a practical way to match the symptom to the likely cause and the trade you may need.

What you notice	Likely cause	Who usually deals with it
Fan runs but suction is weak	Grease filters or charcoal filters are clogged	Homeowner, cleaner or appliance repairer
Fan runs but no air comes out of the outside vent	Ducting is blocked, crushed, disconnected or badly routed	Ventilation and AC engineer
Lights work but the fan does not spin	Faulty fan motor, control switch or internal connection	Electrician or appliance repairer
Fan hums, rattles or starts slowly	Motor is failing or fan blades are obstructed	Electrician or appliance repairer
Airflow drops after kitchen refit work	Ducting may have been kinked, reduced or boxed in incorrectly	Ventilation and AC engineer or kitchen fitter
Steam clears poorly in a flat or internal kitchen	Recirculating extractor is overloaded or not suitable for the room	Ventilation and AC engineer

For most airflow faults, especially where ducting is involved, a ventilation and AC engineer is usually the best first call. If the fan has no power, smells hot or the controls are faulty, compare local prices on HaMuch’s electrician rates page before booking electrical work.

Filters are the easiest problem to rule out

A blocked grease filter is one of the most common reasons an extractor fan is not working as expected. Cooking oils cool as they rise, then stick to the mesh filter. Over time, that layer of grease restricts airflow and makes the fan work harder.

If your extractor has metal filters, remove them carefully and check whether light passes through the mesh. If they feel sticky or look dark, clean them and let them dry fully before refitting. Paper, foam or charcoal filters normally need replacing rather than washing, unless the manual says otherwise.

Keeping filters clean also reduces fire risk. The London Fire Brigade includes extractor fans and filters in its advice on keeping cooking areas free from grease build-up. If you cook often, especially frying or searing, filter maintenance is not just about smells. It helps the appliance work safely and efficiently.

Ducting problems can make a working fan feel useless

If the fan sounds normal but hardly any air leaves the building, the problem may be somewhere between the hood and the outside vent. Ducting can become crushed behind cupboards, disconnected during refit work or blocked by debris at the outlet.

Long duct runs can also reduce performance, especially if they have several bends. Flexible ducting that sags or folds sharply can restrict airflow much more than homeowners expect. In some kitchens, the hood has been connected to ducting that is too narrow for the fan, making the unit noisy but ineffective.

A ventilation engineer can check whether the duct route is clear, correctly sized and safely terminated outside. If you are in London, Birmingham, Manchester or a surrounding town, labour availability and rates can vary noticeably, so it is worth comparing local tradespeople rather than accepting the first estimate.

Electrical faults need a qualified electrician

If the extractor fan is completely dead, only the light works or the fan makes a humming sound without spinning, it may be an electrical or motor fault. Cooker hoods are often connected through a fused spur or wired into the kitchen circuit, so this is not a job to guess at.

Switch the fan off if you notice any of these warning signs:

A burning smell from the hood or switch
A hot or discoloured control panel
Buzzing from the switch, fused spur or appliance
The fan cutting in and out unpredictably
Tripping electrics when the fan is turned on

An electrician can test the power supply, switch, fuse and wiring, then advise whether the fan itself needs repair or replacement. For landlords, a faulty hardwired extractor should be dealt with promptly, particularly if tenants are reporting damp, smells or electrical symptoms.

If there is any smell of gas near the hob, boiler or meter, do not use the extractor, light switches or flames. Leave the property, call the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999 and follow Gas Safe Register gas emergency advice. After the emergency has been made safe, use a Gas Safe registered engineer for gas appliance checks.

Poor installation can cause weak extraction from day one

Sometimes the extractor fan has never pulled properly. This is common after kitchen refurbishments where the visible hood looks fine but the hidden ducting is an afterthought.

A few installation issues can cause poor extraction:

The hood is too high above the hob
The duct has too many bends
The duct outlet is blocked by a flap that cannot open fully
The fan is set to recirculate when the homeowner expected external extraction
The kitchen has no easy source of replacement air
The extractor is too small for the way the room is used

A kitchen fitter may be needed if cabinets, boxing-in or the hood housing need altering. A ventilation and AC engineer is better placed to assess duct routes and airflow. An electrician may also be needed if the unit is being replaced or moved.

This is where comparing quotes helps. One tradesperson may quote to replace the hood, another may identify a simpler ducting problem. HaMuch is built to make those comparisons easier by showing real, transparent pricing and local reviews, not just a list of names with no cost context.

Should you repair or replace the extractor fan?

Repair is often sensible when the issue is a blocked duct, dirty filters, a failed switch or a loose connection. Replacement may be better if the unit is old, noisy, underpowered or needs parts that are hard to source.

If you are already planning kitchen work, it may be worth upgrading from recirculating extraction to ducted extraction where the layout allows. Ducted systems are usually better at removing moisture from cooking, which can help reduce condensation on windows, cupboards and walls. That said, not every home can be ducted easily, especially flats with internal kitchens or restrictions on external vents.

Ask the tradesperson to separate the quote into labour, parts and any making-good work. For example, replacing a built-in hood may involve electrical disconnection, fitting the new unit, adjusting a cabinet panel and checking the duct. Seeing the work broken down helps you compare quotes fairly.

What to tell the tradesperson when you ask for quotes

A clear description saves time and can help you get more accurate prices. When posting the job, include the type of extractor if you know it, whether air should vent outside and what changed before the problem started.

Helpful details include the brand and model, whether the light still works, whether the fan makes any noise, when the filters were last cleaned or replaced, and whether there is an outside grille. Photos are useful too, but take them from a normal distance rather than trying to photograph inside the appliance.

If you manage rental properties, mention whether the tenant is reporting condensation, mould, cooking smells in other rooms or a complete loss of power to the hood. These details help separate a cleaning issue from a ventilation or electrical fault.

How to avoid the same problem coming back

Once the extractor is working again, a little routine care goes a long way. Clean grease filters regularly, replace charcoal filters when needed and keep the area around the outside vent clear where it is safe to do so.

Try to use the extractor before steam builds up, not only after the kitchen is already full of moisture. Turning it on a few minutes before heavy cooking and leaving it running for a short time afterwards can help clear air more effectively. If the fan is ducted, listen for changes in noise. A sudden rattle, whistle or deeper hum can be an early sign of a loose cover, blocked duct or tired motor.

For landlords, keep a note of filter changes, repairs and tenant reports. Extractor issues can contribute to damp and mould complaints, so it is better to act early than wait until decoration, plaster or cupboards are affected.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my kitchen extractor fan not pulling air through? The most common causes are clogged grease filters, old charcoal filters, blocked or crushed ducting, a stuck outside vent flap or a weak fan motor. Start by cleaning or replacing filters, then call a ventilation engineer or electrician if airflow is still poor.

Who should I call if my extractor fan is not working? Call an electrician if there is no power, a burning smell, tripping electrics or faulty controls. Call a ventilation and AC engineer if the fan runs but does not pull air through or the ducting seems blocked. A kitchen fitter may be needed if cupboards or built-in housing need altering.

Can I keep cooking if the extractor fan is not working? You can usually cook with extra care if there is no electrical fault, no burning smell and no gas smell, but open windows and avoid creating lots of steam or smoke. If you smell gas, leave the property and call the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999.

How often should kitchen extractor filters be cleaned? Metal grease filters should be cleaned regularly, often monthly in busy kitchens. Charcoal filters in recirculating extractors normally need replacing every few months, but always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your model.

Is weak suction always a sign I need a new cooker hood? No. Many suction problems are caused by dirty filters, blocked vents or poor ducting. A tradesperson can check whether the existing fan can be restored before you pay for a replacement.

Need your kitchen extractor checked?

If your kitchen extractor fan is not pulling air through after the basic filter checks, post the job on HaMuch. You can compare local tradespeople, see transparent pricing and read genuine customer reviews before deciding who to contact.

For airflow and ducting problems, ask for a ventilation and AC engineer. For power, switches, burning smells or a fan that will not spin, choose an electrician. If the issue feels urgent or unsafe, stop using the extractor and request help straight away.

Slates or Tiles Missing From the Roof After a Storm

27th August 2026 Matt Warren

If you have spotted slates or roof tiles missing after a storm, the main thing is not to panic and not to climb onto the roof. A missing tile can look small from the garden or street, but it can expos

In most cases, this is a job for a roofing contractor or a builder who carries out roof repairs. If water has reached lights, sockets or the consumer unit, you may also need an electrician. If the ceiling or plaster has been damaged, that comes later, once the roof is watertight.

This guide explains what to do now, what the damage might mean, who to call and how to compare local repair costs before booking anyone.

What to do first if roof tiles are missing after a storm

Start with safe checks from ground level. Do not go onto the roof, lean out of upstairs windows or try to refit tiles yourself. Roofs can be slippery after rain, and storm damage can leave surrounding tiles loose even if they still look attached.

Your first steps should be simple and practical:

Check the roof from the ground, the garden or the opposite side of the road if it is safe to do so.
Take clear photos of the missing slates or tiles, plus any broken pieces on the ground.
Move furniture, electrical items and valuables away from any damp ceiling areas inside.
Put a bucket or container under an active drip, but do not touch light fittings or switches if water is nearby.
Check the loft only if it is safe, well lit and you can stay on boarded areas.
Contact your insurer if you think the damage was caused by a named storm or severe weather.

If there is water coming through the ceiling near electrics, treat that as urgent. Switch off the affected circuit only if you can do so safely and without touching wet surfaces. Then contact a qualified electrician and a roof repair tradesperson. You can compare local electrician rates on HaMuch if electrical safety needs checking after water ingress.

What missing slates or tiles can mean

A roof covering is designed to overlap so rain is shed downwards and away from the structure. When a slate or tile is missing, that protective pattern is broken. Sometimes the underlay beneath the tiles will keep out light rain for a short time, but it is not meant to act as the main weatherproof layer.

Storms can also cause damage you cannot see from the ground. A tile may have blown off because it was already cracked, the fixing had corroded or the batten underneath had weakened. That is why a good tradesperson will usually check the surrounding area, not just replace one visible tile.

What you can see	Possible cause	Trade to call
One or two missing roof tiles or slates	Wind uplift, old fixings or previous cracking	Roofer or builder who handles roof repairs
Several missing tiles in one area	Wider storm damage, failed battens or loose surrounding tiles	Roofer or builder, possibly with scaffolding
Missing ridge or hip tiles	Mortar failure or storm movement along the roof peak	Roofer or builder
Damp patch on upstairs ceiling	Rain getting through the roof covering, flashing or chimney area	Roofer or builder first, plasterer later if needed
Water near light fittings	Roof leak reaching electrical fittings	Electrician urgently, plus roofer or builder
Loose guttering or fascia damage	Wind has pulled fixings away	Builder, roofer or guttering specialist

The key point is that the visible missing tile may only be the first sign. A proper inspection helps stop repeat leaks, especially before the next spell of bad weather.

Who should you call for missing roof tiles?

For most storm-related missing slates or tiles, call a roofing contractor or a builder experienced in roof repairs. On HaMuch, homeowners can compare tradespeople by location, reviews and clear local rates, rather than trying to guess what a fair price should be.

If you are in London, Birmingham, Manchester or the surrounding areas, labour rates and access costs can vary a lot from one property to another. A terraced house with restricted rear access is not the same job as a low roof on a detached home with space for ladders or scaffolding. Checking local builder rates on HaMuch gives you a clearer starting point before you request quotes.

You may need more than one trade if the storm damage has spread inside the property. The usual order is roof first, electrics if water has got near fittings, then plastering or redecoration after the affected area has dried. If the ceiling is stained, cracked or blown after the leak has been repaired, compare plasterer rates near you before arranging internal repairs.

How urgent is a missing roof tile?

A missing tile is not always an emergency in the same way as water pouring through the ceiling, but it should not be left for weeks. The risk depends on the weather forecast, how many tiles are missing and whether water is already getting inside.

If the weather is dry and only one tile has slipped, you may be able to book the repair for the next available visit. If rain is forecast, there are several missing slates or you can see daylight in the loft, ask for a prompt inspection. If water is actively entering the property, tell the tradesperson it is an active roof leak caused by storm damage.

You can also check the Met Office weather warnings if another storm is due. That can help you explain the urgency when requesting quotes and decide whether a temporary weatherproofing visit is needed before a full repair.

What affects the cost of replacing missing roof tiles?

It is difficult to give one sensible price without seeing the roof, because the visible repair can be the smallest part of the job. A straightforward replacement of a few accessible tiles is very different from storm damage on a steep roof, a third storey roofline or a chimney area that needs scaffolding.

The main cost factors are usually:

How many slates or tiles are missing, cracked or loose.
Whether matching replacement tiles are easy to source.
The height and pitch of the roof.
Whether safe ladder access is enough or scaffolding is needed.
Whether the underlay, battens, flashing, ridge tiles or chimney pointing are also damaged.
Whether it is an emergency callout after a storm.
Your location, especially in high-demand areas after severe weather.

This is where upfront comparison helps. HaMuch shows real, comparable pricing by trade and location, so you can sense-check quotes rather than relying on vague estimates. After a storm, many homeowners contact the first available tradesperson, but you can still ask for a clear breakdown of labour, materials, access equipment and any temporary weatherproofing.

Can you temporarily cover the gap yourself?

Only do what you can do safely from inside the property. If you can access the loft without stepping off boarded areas, you may be able to place a container under a drip or move stored items away from the wet area. Avoid stapling, nailing or fixing anything to roof timbers unless you know what you are doing.

Do not climb onto the roof to fit a tarpaulin, replace a tile or inspect a chimney. It may look like a quick job, but roofs are dangerous after high winds and rain. A professional will also know whether the surrounding tiles are secure enough to work around and whether extra access equipment is needed.

If broken tiles have fallen into a garden, driveway or path, move people away from the area until it has been checked. If there are loose tiles over a public pavement or shared entrance, make that clear when you request quotes so the job is treated with the right urgency.

What a tradesperson will usually check

A good roof repair visit should go beyond replacing the most obvious missing tile. The aim is to make the roof watertight and reduce the chance of the same area failing again in the next storm.

The tradesperson may check:

The surrounding tiles or slates for cracks, looseness or slipped fixings.
The condition of the battens and felt beneath the damaged area.
Ridge tiles, hip tiles and verge edges where wind damage is common.
Lead flashing around chimneys, roof windows or joins.
Gutters, fascia boards and downpipes affected by wind or falling debris.
Internal signs of water entry in the loft or top floor rooms.

Ask whether the quote includes removing broken debris, matching the replacement tiles as closely as possible and making good any small associated defects found during the repair. If the tradesperson says extra work is needed once they are on the roof, ask for photos so you can see what has changed.

What landlords and property managers should do

If a tenant reports missing roof tiles after a storm, ask for photos from a safe distance and whether there is any water inside. Do not ask tenants to inspect the roof or enter unsafe loft spaces.

For rental properties, speed matters because a small leak can quickly affect ceilings, electrics and decoration. Keep a written record of when the issue was reported, what photos were supplied, which tradespeople you contacted and any temporary measures taken. If an insurance claim is likely, those records can be useful.

It is also worth arranging the roof repair first rather than decorating straight away. Plaster and paint repairs should wait until the source of water ingress is fixed and the affected area has had time to dry.

How to describe the job when requesting quotes

The clearer your job description, the easier it is for tradespeople to respond with useful information. You do not need to diagnose the roof yourself. Just describe what you can see and what is happening inside.

Include:

The type of property, such as terraced, semi-detached, detached or flat.
The number of storeys.
Whether the missing slates or tiles are at the front, rear or side.
Whether water is coming inside now or there are only external signs.
Whether access is easy from a driveway, garden or shared area.
Photos from ground level, if you have them.
Whether you need a temporary repair, a full repair or both.

For example, you might write: "Several roof tiles are missing at the rear of a two-storey terraced house after last night’s storm. There is a damp patch on the upstairs bedroom ceiling but no active dripping at the moment. Photos attached. Please quote for inspection and repair."

That gives a tradesperson enough detail to judge urgency, likely access needs and whether they should ask follow-up questions before visiting.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can rain get in through one missing roof tile? Yes, it can. The underlay may resist some rain for a short time, but it is not designed to be the main waterproof layer. One missing tile should still be checked and repaired before more bad weather.

Is a missing roof tile an emergency? It is urgent if water is coming in, several tiles are missing, loose tiles could fall or more stormy weather is forecast. If the weather is dry and there is no internal leak, it may be a prompt repair rather than an emergency callout.

Can I replace a missing roof tile myself? It is not recommended unless you are trained and have proper roof access equipment. The fall risk is serious, and nearby tiles may also be loose after a storm.

Will home insurance cover missing roof tiles after a storm? It depends on your policy, the cause of damage and the condition of the roof before the storm. Take photos, keep invoices and contact your insurer before authorising non-urgent work if you plan to claim.

Do I need a roofer or a builder? A roofer is the most direct choice, but many builders also handle roof repairs such as replacing tiles, fixing ridge tiles and repairing storm damage. If water has reached electrics, call an electrician as well.

Should I repair the ceiling straight away? No. Fix the roof first, then allow the affected ceiling or wall to dry properly. Plastering and decorating too soon can trap moisture and lead to further staining or mould.

Get missing roof tiles repaired before the next storm

If slates or tiles are missing from your roof after a storm, act early and stay off the roof yourself. Post the job on HaMuch, add photos if you have them and compare local tradespeople with transparent rates and genuine customer reviews.

If water is coming in now, say that clearly in the job description so local roof repair tradespeople can understand the urgency. HaMuch is free for homeowners to use, and there is no obligation to book until you have compared your options and chosen the right person for the job.